This week my fellow sewers are posting about their fabric choices, but I'm having a hard time finding the three yards of vintage navy calico I am imagining in my head! So I am adjusting my schedule a little bit and starting on my muslin first.
If you have never worked with a Burda pattern before, it can be somewhat difficult. You purchase a PDF and print the pattern yourself at home. A lot of Burda patterns have European sizing and no seam allowances, so you really have to thoroughly read the instructions. This particular pattern only has pieces for a bodice, and the skirt is just a big gathered rectangle. I cut out my pieces.
I realized afterwards that I should have taken my sewing gauge and marked 5/8" all around since this pattern didn't have a seam allowance. Instead I cut it right on the lines, so I had to add the 5/8" when cutting my fabric.
I did the darts first, and since I hardly ever post pictures of myself doing actual sewing on my blog, here's some live action sewing shots with a bonus kitty. I made the dress I'm wearing this past weekend but I'm a bad blogger and haven't posted about it yet. It's part of my Swirl dress knockoff project.
I intentionally left out the back center seam because I thought it was pointless. Instead, I just cut the piece on the fold.
Turns out it's NOT pointless, and I wasn't quite sure just how I was going to turn my bodice right-side out after sewing in the lining. Then I remembered this swimsuit I made a few months ago had a lining, so I consulted the instructions.
You sew one side seam of the bodice and lining, and match right sides together, pinning at the armholes and neck/back.
Sew all the way around, leaving the tops of the straps unsewn, and voila! You have a lined bodice. You'll need to sew the straps front to back once you have turned it inside right and pressed everything. I did the straps wrong on my muslin by accident, so I will be sure not to make the same mistake on the real thing.
It fits great in the waist and across the back, but it is a little loose around the neck and WAY too low-cut. I'll definitely have to raise the neckline a little bit and make the straps less wide because I don't like how much they hang off my shoulders. But overall, I'm pleased with the fit. The changes I need to make should be pretty easy.
I can't wait to see what my fellow bloggers have been working on!
Sam: http://hand-quilter.blogspot.com/
Marie: http://asewingodyssey.blogspot.com/
Reana Louise: http://curvespatternsandpins.blogspot.com/
Kat: http://petticoatsandpeplums.blogspot.com/
Jen: http://the-paperdoll.blogspot.com/
Rachel: http://mymessings.blogspot.com/
I found the same thing with this pattern, it was totally cleavage-city and I'm not the most busty of babes! So, can I ask? By lining it that way, does that mean no bias tape / facing?
ReplyDeleteI am not sure whether I am going to line mine. I might just use bias binding around the sleeves and neck instead. I am not a big fan of lining my dresses as it makes them too hot to wear on the Gold Coast most of the year. Love the muslin! I am posting my fabric this week and am about to start on my muslin tonight.
ReplyDeleteI've also made this pattern up and it was tres low cut. Of course, I didn't make a muslin (naughty me!!!) but I did do some piping around the neckline which actually worked out well! I can't wait to see your alterations in case I ever make this again :)
ReplyDeleteThis is looking really good Amy! I need to re-visit mine as I've done something stupidly wrong :o(
ReplyDeleteWow, dedicated muslin to do the lining too! I don't think i've ever lined a muslin.
ReplyDeleteWhat's the print on the fabric you used for the muslin? I can't make it out.
Wow, this looks great!! And thanks for the lining tips too :)
ReplyDeleteYes, Reana Louise, no facings or bias tape! You just sew all the way around and then turn it inside out.
ReplyDeleteRachel, it's geese. It's a piece I got in a fabric grab bag from a thrift store. It's pretty hideous but perfect for a muslin!
Hey Amy, I think you have a great fit, but I see what you mean about the neck line... I think I will be raising that slightly :-) Super impressed you lined your muslin! I can't decide whether I will line or bias bind. I am leaning towards bias binding. Hope you find the fabric you are thinking of! Sam xox
ReplyDeleteHi, saw your post on sew retro, followed the link. Irrelevant, but I love that your cat snuck onto your pictures. :-)
ReplyDelete